Taking The Fuel Tank Out
I have a 1970 Ford F-100 with the factory fit fuel tank behind the seat, inside the cab. I would like to move the tank out of the cab and fit it under the bed. Do you guys know of any tanks that might directly bolt on to the frame? If not, what would be the easiest way to move it?
Via e-mail

We checked with a few of the well known aftermarket fuel tank builders and none of them had a direct fit, bolt-on tank to fit your truck. We did go to www.fordification.com, as they are a great online resource for the '67-'72 series Ford pickups. On there, they document that either a custom fabricated fuel tank will need to be created or the factory-optional saddle tank can be used in lieu of the in-cab tank. Happy hunting!

Big Truck Little Motor
I just got my first truck. It's a 1997 Chevy C1500 regular cab with a 4.3L V-6. I am trying to get a new intake for it, but pretty much every one I see is for an S-10, not a full-size. Would one of the mini-truck ones work for me? I doubt it but I need help. I apologize for asking an idiotic question, but any help is appreciated.
Forum User I.D. Evergreen Terrace
Via www.truckinweb.com forums

We chose to pull this off our website forum because this issue keeps popping up. You guys with the full-size trucks and mini motors can rest easy because there are aftermarket sources for a cold air intake system to fit your trucks. We have heard of people trying to modify the S-10 systems to fit the C1500, but why bother with that crap? Airaid (www.airaid.com), K&N (www.knfilters.com), and True Flow (www.trueflow.com) all have proper fit 4.3L intake kits for the full-size trucks.

Going Low With an S-10I currently own a 2001 Chevy S-10 and I'm creating a plan for a beautification process on it. I have seen an advertisement for a product called the Road Grader and I would like to know if this product will give me an effect similar to 'bags. What other options do I have that are also not 'bags? I want to go low, but I don't have the resources to airbag my truck. What can I do to achieve a low yet mean stance for my truck? Thank you for taking the time to answer this for me.
Fair Oaks, California

Somewhere in there you are asking how low you can get your S-10 without using any kind of adjustable suspension. The Road Grader kit is an air suspension system, so it would not be what you are looking for. But you can get as low as possible with the use of bolt-on drop components. Take the red S-10 in the picture for instance. It is running 2-inch drop coils in the front with 2-inch drop spindles. Under the bed, 3-inch drop leafs and 2-inch drop blocks bring the rear closer to the ground. Realistically, that is about the most you can go and still have any kind of driveability. You could do the same thing. Check with the advertisers here in Truckin' and we're sure you will find everything you need at a price you can afford.

Building the Almost Unbuildable
I am new to the truck scene and just starting to get really interested in it. This magazine really helps me come up with ideas for my truck. In the recently released "50 Readers' Rides" there was a '94 Dodge Dakota dumped on 18s with clear corners and taillights. My Dodge Dakota is a 1987 and I would like to find similar parts for my truck. I want a drop and big wheels for it, but I am having problems finding anything to make it look awesome. Could you guys please point me in the right direction? Keep up the awesome magazine. I am learning a lot from reading Truckin' and because of that I am thinking about getting into some auto body or customizing classes.David Passante
Via e-mail from Kansas

You have found yourself a truck that you are happy with, but it is going to be an uphill battle to make anything out of that truck. As you have unhappily found, that year and model Dodge just doesn't see any customizing. We have included a rendering from Graphic Disorder of that year Dakota to give you an idea of what it could be. It is going to take a lot of fabrication, as the parts you seek (besides the wheels) are not being manufactured. Glad we inspired you to take on the project headlong. Just go for it, David.

Got Chrome Suspension?
I recently acquired your Issue 13 with the Terminator truck on the cover. I have been awaiting the outcome of a feature on Deberti's truck for some time now. Awesome job, I loved it. I read that article first and then proceeded to flip through he rest of the magazine. I had been a long-time subscriber to some of Primedia's off-road and 4x4-themed issues, but after the turn towards more hardcore wheeling and rock crawler rigs, my interest waned. I am glad to see that more rock crawler rigs are going the extra length to make a more show-worthy statement in their colors and design, though. All the four-wheel drive magazines stopped showing the big money show and 4x4 trucks back in the late 90s. Now it's feature after feature of trucks with 37s and push bars. A couple years ago I drove out to the Truckin' Nationals in Phoenix, Arizona, and there was nothing but awesome 2WD and 4WD trucks like the ones I had seen in your magazine. Keep showing the chromed-out 4x4 trucks. Someone has to because the magazines geared towards 4x4 trucks aren't. I look forward to more in the 2006 issues.
Rob Brooks
Via e-mail

You seem to have hit the nail on the head because as of recently, a good portion of the feedback we're getting on these too-tall trucks is a desire for more, more, and more. We believe that these types of trucks belong in our pages more than in our dirt counterparts due to the fact that they feature the same types of modifications to the paint, body, and interior, but the suspension goes up instead of down. These are entirely street-driven trucks that never see dirt, so they don't belong in a dirt publication. We agree with you, Rob, as we too love these mammoth examples of ingenuity and admire some of the absolutely crazy modifications that go into a two-foot lift on airbags. Thanks for the input.

Too High
F irst off, I own a '99 Ford F-150 Super Cab with an 8-foot bed. That wouldn't be a major problem to customize except it is a 4x4. My main problem is suspension. The truck was originally my father's, and he purchased it new as a 4x4 because we go hunting quite a bit. I have no use for the 4x4, but since I got the truck so cheap I am going to continue with my plan to modify it. Most of the ads I see are for 2WD trucks and I want my truck to be lowered a bit with a really sporty ride to match my aggressive driving style. Is there anywhere I can look to find components for my F-150, or would everything have to be fabricated? My goal is to have a lowered, not dumped, truck on 22-inch MB Motoring wheels. Please point me in the right direction to get my project started.
Shayne Shatterfield
Via e-mail

ShayneAlthough you'll probably run into lots of people who will tell you otherwise, lowering a 4x4 truck is no sweat. Some trucks are just harder than others but your truck has off-the-shelf parts available for it. Don't go getting all mushy on us for doing your dirty work for you, but turn your browser to Belltech (www.belltechcorp.com) and you'll find yourself right where you want to be. Belltech makes a 4-inch rear drop and with their torsion key, you can fine-tune your front drop between one and three inches. That was easy, wasn't it?

Looking For Love In All The Wrong PlacesAs sent to Steve Warner:
I would like to take this time to compli ment you on your truck and boat. They look great and I was excited to see the feature article on them. I am 16 years old and I am looking at a 2002 Chevy Silverado that has been body dropped with a front, back, side, side airbag system on it. It easily tucks 22s and looks great but I am not sure how to spot any problems with the suspension. I was wondering if one of your co-workers could give me some tips on how to save myself from buying a truck with incorrect suspension. I await your response.
Quinn Mulrooney
Via e-mail

Quinn,One of the main things to check out is the weld quality. Improper welds that look like big caterpillars or boogers mean the weld did not penetrate the metal and will likely crack and fail. Get the truck up on a lift and go from one end to the other and thoroughly scope out the running of the airlines and wiring. Look closely at the airbags in the up and down position to verify clearance from and rubbing. It's especially important on the front 'bags, as a failure there could be catastrophic. Take the truck for a test drive and leave the radio off. Listen for abnormal rattles, banging, clunking, or grinding noises. Body dropped trucks done wrong have all kinds of fitment and clearance issue. Do you know the shop that did the work? What is their reputation like and do you trust them? It is far easier to do the job right once. It is much harder to fix what has been done wrong. If you are uneasy or are not getting the answers you want, then walk away from the deal. It could cost you or someone else their life.

Multi-Programming Nightmare
I have been a reader now for about 5 years and I finally have a question that I could use your help with. My question pertains to my '99 Chevrolet Silverado with a 4.8L V-8. Right now I am running the motor with a Hypertech Programmer, but I am ready for more power. On my list of wants is a new Crane cam kit and a Whipple Supercharger. My first question is, is it okay to combine all these things? Both the Crane and the Whipple have programmers that come with them. Do I combine all three? What's the best combination to use? Thanks for your time.
Mark Griffin
Via e-mail, U.S. Army

Sgt. Griffin,
Things are going well for you in the Army, huh? A cam and a blower kit sound like a decent proposition for the little V-8. Okay, here goes. Deprogram the Hypertech and put the truck's computer back to stock. The Crane cam kit has timing advance built into it, so no additional advance is necessary such as what the Hypertech does. If you install the cam, use the Crane programmer to compensate the factory computer. Once the blower goes, deprogram the Crane computer unit and put the truck's computer back to stock. Use the programming supplied with the Whipple unit. It should be able to maneuver the parameters enough to play well with the cam. It is not advisable to stack the programming, as it will surely spell disaster. Your last resort is to contact Diablo or Superchips Custom Tuning for a made-for-you programming unit that can still handle tire size changes, gear changes, and top speed limiter elimination.