Ford SuperCrew 22 Inche Rims - Tech - Truckin magazine May 2002

Last month, you may have noticed the ultra-low Ford SuperCrew owned by Street Scene Equipment. Yep, it was the one plastered right on our cover. The truck achieved a new level of low for SuperCrews, and this month we're going to give you the lowdown on how it was done.

Mike and Lance of Street Scene had been planning since day one to build a SuperCrew that sat lower than any of the others out there, but after the fanfare died down and the 'Crew was retired from the show circuit, they did not want to be left with an undriveable vehicle.

To add another challenge, the 20- and 22-inch Colorado Customs were already on their way. And since a Horkey wood bed kit was going to be installed, the bed floor could not be cut. A tall order, but after brainstorming with Bob and Mike of Dealer's Sport Truck and various manufacturers, they hashed out a plan that was just crazy enough to work.

For the frontend, they would use upper and lower control arms from DJM. They decided on a custom-cut, chrome four-link kit from TCI for the rear. Also on the list was a complete airbag setup from Airlift. Mike had the task of making it all work smoothly, and with the 'Crew lacking paint and with SEMA just a few weeks away, there was no time to be wasted.

So follow along on our three-day adventure, and keep in mind that this is not a simple do-it-yourself kit. Unless you have at least some basic welding and fabrication skills, this is probably a project best left to a qualified shop.

When the stock-height 'Crew was rolled into the Dealer's shop, the bed was already stripped and the tailgate was shaved and primered.
When the stock-height 'Crew was rolled into the Dealer's shop, the bed was already strippe
Because this was a rather long and involved install, we skipped showing you the disassembly of the stock suspension. The sway bar, the tie rod, and the caliper were moved to the side, and the coil, the shock, the spindle, the rotor, and the upper and lower control arms were removed, leaving the frame bare. With this done, Mike pressed the new ball joint into the DJM lower control arm. Also, the tab that normally keeps the coil from rotating was ground off so the 'bag mount would properly seat.
Because this was a rather long and involved install, we skipped showing you the disassembl

A: The lower control arm was then installed with the stock hardware as well as the upper ball joint onto the upper control arm...
A: The lower control arm was then installed with the stock hardware as well as the upper b
B: The lower control arm was then installed with the stock hardware as well as the upper ball joint onto the upper control arm...
B: The lower control arm was then installed with the stock hardware as well as the upper b

...which was then installed using the new DJM alignment cams and bolts.
The spindle and rotor (which came off as a unit) was set into place, and the upper and lower nuts were torqued to spec.
The spindle and rotor (which came off as a unit) was set into place, and the upper and low

To determine the height of the 'bag mounts, the suspension was completely compressed, and the distance from the top of the spring hat to the bottom of the control arm was measured. The mounts were cut from 4-inch steel pipe. When the mounts were attached to the fully compressed airbag, it needed to equal the previous measurement. A steel plate was then welded in and drilled so the mount would attach to the 'bag. Airlift also provides a plate to fit between the 'bag and the mount to protect it when it is fully compressed.
To determine the height of the 'bag mounts, the suspension was completely compressed, and
Here's the inside of the upper 'bag mount bolted to the 'bag, with the 1/2-inch air line fitting installed. Don't forget to add pipe thread sealant.
Here's the inside of the upper 'bag mount bolted to the 'bag, with the 1/2-inch air line f

The assembly was then slid into place and test-fitted by compressing/extending the suspension.
The assembly was then slid into place and test-fitted by compressing/extending the suspens
With the 'bag seated in place and all adjustments made, the 'bag mount was tack-welded to the control arm. We didn't want to weld this completely because if we ever blow a 'bag it will need to be ground out for removal.
With the 'bag seated in place and all adjustments made, the 'bag mount was tack-welded to

The rest of the suspension was buttoned back up, and the search for the perfect shock location began. Basically, this consists of determining a location, tack-welding the mounts into place, bolting up the shocks, raising and lowering the suspension, and turning from stop to stop to see if there is any interference. Mike was lucky and got it on the second try. The upper mount found a home on the frame just in front of the control arm bracket, while the bottom stud protrudes from the front center of the lower control arm. Once they were fully welded, the front was ready for plumbing and electrical, but first we need to get the back caught up.
The rest of the suspension was buttoned back up, and the search for the perfect shock loca
First on the agenda out back was to install the step notch. After scribing a line with the supplied metal cut-out pattern, Mike cut the area out with a Sawzall.
First on the agenda out back was to install the step notch. After scribing a line with the

Next, the eight mounting holes were drilled (we drilled pilot holes with a smaller bit first). The eight bolts were then installed and torqued to air compressor specs.
Next, the eight mounting holes were drilled (we drilled pilot holes with a smaller bit fir
The eight bolts were then installed and torqued to air compressor specs.

Similar to the front, we skipped the disassembly of the rear suspension. The leaves and shocks were removed, and the axle was suspended in place with jackstands and motorcycle tie-downs. Mike began mounting the TCI four-link setup by tack-welding the front upper mount on the top of the hanger. (The lower link bar uses the factory hanger holes as a mount.) Again, nothing was attached permanently until the suspension could be tested.
Similar to the front, we skipped the disassembly of the rear suspension. The leaves and sh
The lower axle mounts were attached next. The right side also acts as the mount for the Panhard bar.
The lower axle mounts were attached next. The right side also acts as the mount for the Pa

The upper axle mounts were attached right on top of the stock spring pad.
Now the four link bars were installed into place, and the axle was raised and lowered with the jack. Everything seemed to be working properly, so Mike proceeded to install the Panhard mounts. The frame mount was located on the framerail, just behind the axle, and the Panhard bar was mounted up.
Now the four link bars were installed into place, and the axle was raised and lowered with

Now the bar was bolted to the axle end, and the suspension was once again completely extended and compressed to make sure we had the correct geometry and that there was no binding. Everything looked great, so Mike moved on to the 'bag mounts.
Now the bar was bolted to the axle end, and the suspension was once again completely exten
A temporary brace was attached to the bottom of the lower 'bag mount, and it was then tacked to the axle.
A temporary brace was attached to the bottom of the lower 'bag mount, and it was then tack

For the upper mounts, Mike fabricated a handy little bridge. Remember that this whole setup has to fit under the bed floor.
For the upper mounts, Mike fabricated a handy little bridge. Remember that this whole setu
The bridge was then tacked to the top of the frame at all four corners.

Now the 'bags were slid into place and bolted down...
...and once again the suspension was checked for smooth operation.

Now the 22s were bolted on, and the truck was set on the ground for the first time. Then the truck was raised and lowered with the lift. This was where we boned out and let Mike let loose with the welder.
Now the 22s were bolted on, and the truck was set on the ground for the first time. Then t
Mike must have had a long night, because the next morning everything in sight was either capped or gusseted. He even undercoated the entire frame and plumbed the 'bags with a Shraeder valve so they could be inflated with the shop air.
Mike must have had a long night, because the next morning everything in sight was either c

The upper shock mounts were made of angle iron and welded to the inner framerail behind the axle.
The upper shock mounts were made of angle iron and welded to the inner framerail behind th
The lower shock mounts found their home on the lower link brackets, and the shocks were installed. It was time for plumbing and electrical.
The lower shock mounts found their home on the lower link brackets, and the shocks were in

Mike temporarily tacked the air tank to the back of the frame. Eventually, a second tank would be added and a rack would be built in this location to house them.
Mike temporarily tacked the air tank to the back of the frame. Eventually, a second tank w
The compressor was mounted on the right rear framerail. A second compressor would also be added on the opposite framerail. This tank and compressor setup was only enough to give the truck one lift to ride height; we'll double up later -- after SEMA, of course.
The compressor was mounted on the right rear framerail. A second compressor would also be

Now for the plumbing of the air line. First, Mike ran all of the air line to the required points (see diagram). It's less nerve racking to run all of the 1/2-inch line first, then splice in the 1/4-inch line for the gauge later. Mike used a sweet system to simplify the wiring process. Two long pairs of wire were wound together (white/black, yellow/white) and two shorter pairs (green/black, yellow/green). Following this pattern will guarantee getting the wires hooked up to the right switches the first time.
Now for the plumbing of the air line. First, Mike ran all of the air line to the required
Here are the left front valves hooked up and ready for action. The valve port with no fitting is the exhaust port; that's where the air escapes when you lay the truck out.
Here are the left front valves hooked up and ready for action. The valve port with no fitt

The entire rear setup. Notice the two pair of wire and spliced in 1/4-inch line running off toward the driver side together?
The entire rear setup. Notice the two pair of wire and spliced in 1/4-inch line running of
That's because they're headed here under the floor below the driver seat. Along with their counterparts from the front and the pressure switch/compressor power wire, all were then run through to the cab. If you're keeping score, that's nine wires and four 1/4-inch lines.
That's because they're headed here under the floor below the driver seat. Along with their

Once through the floor, Mike wire-tied them and routed them to where the gauges would be.
Since Mike was following his own system, hooking up the gauges was a snap.

Time for bed...sort of. Mike removed the tin heat shield and plasma cut a large chunk of the bed channel to clear the top of the differential pumpkin.
Time for bed...sort of. Mike removed the tin heat shield and plasma cut a large chunk of t
Finally, as the sun set on Day Three, Mike and Ox lifted the bed back onto the 'Crew and hooked everything back up.
Finally, as the sun set on Day Three, Mike and Ox lifted the bed back onto the 'Crew and h

There you have it. We now get a total of 5 inches of lift in the front and 7 in the rear with the Airlift 'bags. The Street Scene SuperCrew still has a long way to go, but we'd have to say it looks pretty badass just like this -- millimeters from the asphalt and tuckin' 22s.
There you have it. We now get a total of 5 inches of lift in the front and 7 in the rear w