1967 Chevy C10 Buildup - Sheetmetal Bed

7. What was next?

8. That round stock going around the inside of the bed walls is pretty burly, is that just for structural integrity?

9. It's safe to assume, once you had the support structure in place, all you had to do was fill in the blanks with sheetmetal. Is that right, or was it a little more complex than that?

10. Tell us the details of the sheetmetal bed. What are your final plans for the bed (paint, bed-coating, chrome/stainless, etc.)?

11. The tailgate lines up perfectly with the bed, what are your plans for it?

12. Are there any plans to use a bumper or are you going to create a roll pan?

13. With the bed complete, the C10 is really coming along nicely.

14. Heading back up front, are you sticking with the factory '67 grille?

15. Did you have to do anything creative to get the hood to line up because of the cab swap, or was it a bolt-on affair?

I started designing the inside of the bed with the overall look I was going for and what shapes I wanted to achieve that would flow with the rest of the truck's design.
I started designing the inside of the bed with the overall look I was going for and what s
The round stock served a few purposes but none were structural. I wanted to create a point that separated the outside of the vehicle with the inside. Typically when I do a full sheetmetal bed, I like to do a fully-molded look where the outside of the body flows seamlessly to the inside of the bed. When I think about a C10, I think industrial work truck. The tubing gave me that parting line from rounded body to structural bed. I like wide bedrails, it's something I do on all the beds I build. Installing the tubing added girth to the bedrail and made it easy to keep a long consistent radius.
The round stock served a few purposes but none were structural. I wanted to create a point
Yes and no. Yes it's just filling the gaps but the bed has to be 100 percent square to do so. If you look closely at the bed, you will notice that there is not a whole lot of welding on the inside. It seems like a real easy bed to create, but I think it was harder than a fully-molded one. A fully-molded bed is nothing more than a lot of welding, grinding, and more welding and grinding. Each bed panel was CNC cut with a 1-inch lip surrounding the perimeter. The lip was punched with 1/4-inch holes every few inches and then bent back 90 degrees. Each hole was welded to either the bed frame or the bed sheetmetal. We welded the holes (called rosette welds) in between the bedside and the inner skin so there would be no visible welds on the inside of the bed, just rolled edges.
Yes and no. Yes it's just filling the gaps but the bed has to be 100 percent square to do

The bed floor is 1/8-inch PNO plate. PNO means pickled and oiled. Hot rolled plate has a brownish black scaling on it, so they put it through a process called PNO. This removes the scale. If you paint plate with the scale on it the paint will just flake off. The floor is very thick, which keeps it flat and rigid. Stock bed floors are corrugated and the shape gives it it's firm structure. The sides and fenders are 16 guage. This is still pretty thick, but I want to keep the long flat shapes from warping. The final look will include paint and chrome.
The bed floor is 1/8-inch PNO plate. PNO means pickled and oiled. Hot rolled plate has a b
The stock tailgate was really rugged and could withstand just about anything rolling into it. I wanted to clean it up a bit, so we started by tightening up the gaps between the bedsides and tailgate. We removed the old hinges and designed new ones that pivot on sealed roller bearings.
The stock tailgate was really rugged and could withstand just about anything rolling into
We pretty much cut the outer skin off the tailgate and recreated a new internal structure. I thought about a frenched-in bumper, but again I wanted to stick to a clean look, so I stuck to a roll pan (not shown).
We pretty much cut the outer skin off the tailgate and recreated a new internal structure.

The grille is a whole new take on the classic C10 look. The '67 has a unique look with the two round lights and the pair of horizontal grille openings. One thing that bothers me about old cars is all the molding. The edges of the molding always digs into the paint and chips it.
The grille is a whole new take on the classic C10 look. The '67 has a unique look with the
I wanted to create an over-embellished '67 nose with sharper shapes. Instead of the 7-inch round bulbs for the headlights, I used 9-inch off-road lights. The horizontal section of the grille extends end to end and is deep enough to set a six-pack on it. The center of the nose has a fine crease that extends from the hood through the grille defining the center of the truck. I think with the combination of the roof, dash, and grille, it really gives it a contemporary style. Some love it, some hate it, but I love it and so does Howard—that's all that matters.
I wanted to create an over-embellished '67 nose with sharper shapes. Instead of the 7-inch
The factory hood hinges interfere with the front wheels and tires, so I had to design new ones that give it the needed clearance. Other than that, after a little rot repair and straightening, it fit great. Wow, it sounds incredible. We'll leave all of you with a sneak peek of project: The Show slammed on the ground, with its hood down (with old grille in place), new cab on, and bed complete. Don't miss next month when we'll open those stretched doors and make the interior one you’ll never forget.
The factory hood hinges interfere with the front wheels and tires, so I had to design new

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