1973 Chevy C10 Buildup - The Pickup Fix-Up Tour

With the evaporator in place, we installed the filler panel onto the firewall. It bolted directly into the factory mounting holes for the old A/C system. Note the nice cutout for the lines.

Time to build the pressure and suction lines for the A/C system. This ATCO crimping system is a bitchin’ tool for the home mechanic because you can place the dies and tool in a bench top vice and build your own lines, saving you multiple trips to the A/C shop.

Since these are high pressure lines with non-swivel fittings, you must note the orientation of the fitting on the hose when you mock up your lines. Then it's just a matter of tightening the tool and die and in seconds the fitting is crimped perfectly.

We routed the lines from the condenser up to the inner fender well and then over to the Sanden A/C compressor.

Once the plumbing was completed, we reinstalled and refilled the radiator with Peak Global Lifetime anti-freeze and coolant. As long as we don't spring any leaks, this solution should last for the life of our LS engine.

Moving back inside the cab of the Brown Bomber, we began the process of reassembling the dashboard. We filled the empty holes where the A/C vents were supposed to be with more parts from Classic Industries. Once the A/C ductwork was intact and the vents were in place, we reinstalled the dash pad.

New A/C controls are labeled differently than the factory part. The "off" position for the top slider switch is now the "on" position for the A/C system.

Because the Sure-Fit System mounts behind the passenger side of the dashboard we did have to modify the glovebox. Using the supplied template, we cut a section out of the plastic liner using a body saw and then sanded the edge smooth with a die grinder. The rear panel of the liner was then reattached to the sides using the provided clips and screws.

After we buttoned up the dash with the glovebox, we tackled the wiring, which was quite simple. The control panel switched required the usual 12-volt positive lead from the battery, 12-volt ignition lead, a solid ground connection, and of course, a wire running from the on/off panel switch to the A/C compressor clutch switch. We tapped into the battery-side of our electric fan circuit breaker to power the system.

With the wiring complete and all of the plumbing connections double-checked, we made a call to Quality Air. The company specializes in mobile A/C work and had our system charged in less than an hour.

So how well does the system work? The thermometer speaks for itself. This photo was taken on a 100-degree day and the cab was still less than 70-degrees Fahrenheit thanks to the new Vintage Air A/C system. Now we'll have comfort on our long cruise.