We love diesel trucks, and the Duramax-equipped Chevy and GMC 2500 4x4s are truly beasts when it comes to towing and hauling. But, they are lacking in one area, and we're sure you'll agree: their stances aren't up to snuff. We contacted Rough Country suspension to see what they could do about giving our '09 Chevy Silverado the look and capability that comes along with a 6-inch lift and a set of 35-inch tires. Speaking of tires, we went with BF Goodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM2s because of their reputation for durability and trail toughness, and as a benefit, they look great too.
To beef up the Duramax, we went with two easy methods: a stainless steel filter-back exhaust from MBRP and an easily-installed performance module from TS Performance. We went to nearby GO-EZ Customs for the install, where shop owners Dave and Art got a helping hand from Jorge and Greg. GO-EZ is known for air and hydraulic suspension systems on lowered cars and trucks, but their shop is also adept at lift kits and roll cages, so they can practically do it all. Check out how this '09 Silverado HD got a two-day makeover into a more capable, better-looking beast of a work truck.
The kit from Rough Country...
The kit from Rough Country was comprehensive, including burly lift spindles, powdercoated front crossmembers, kicker braces, a skidplate, longer U-bolts for the rear, and four new shocks.
With the truck on the lift...
With the truck on the lift and the wheels and tires out of the way, Art Gomez, from GO-EZ, in Placentia, California, removed the torsion keys after relieving the preload tension. After unplugging the wheel speed sensor and unbolting a retaining clip from the brake line, Art removed the caliper and hung it from the frame.
Continuing with the tear down,...
Continuing with the tear down, he removed the sway bar end links from the lower control arms, busted the tie-rod ends from the spindles, and then he removed the four bolts holding the hub onto the spindle. A 35mm nut, hidden by the dust cover, was removed to allow the hub to slide off the half shaft.
Art then seperated the upper...
Art then seperated the upper and lower ball joint nuts and pulled the factory spindle from the front suspension.
Next, he removed the the six...
Next, he removed the the six bolts that held the half shaft to the front differential.
Dave stepped in and began...
Dave stepped in and began the process of removing the front axle housing. The driveshaft was unbolted at the U-joint, the skidplate was removed, and the crossmember between the rear, lower A-arm mounts was dropped free.
Dave, a veritable reciprocating-saw...
Dave, a veritable reciprocating-saw ninja, removed this tab from the crossmember to allow the differential to be dropped down.
Trusty saw in hand, Dave removed...
Trusty saw in hand, Dave removed the top mounting boss from the differential.
This bracket was then bolted...
This bracket was then bolted to the differential to add a repositioned mounting location. A simple angled drop bracket on the passenger side accomplished the same goal.
With the differential lifted...
With the differential lifted into place, you can see where a section of the differential had to be clearanced. The ribs were sanded down with a flap wheel to about half of their original height.
The beefy new crossmembers...
The beefy new crossmembers were lifted into place and were secured to the chassis using the bolt holes from the factory A-arm location, but with brand-new hardware.
The factory A-arms were then...
The factory A-arms were then bolted in using the factory hardware, but in their new, lower position.