11. When painting a vehicle in a spray booth, static electricity can cause dust particles to cling to metal surfaces. To help eliminate the static cling, attach a length of metal chain to the vehicle’s frame and let it contact the floor. This will reduce the amount of particulate matter that settles on the metal during the painting process.

12. To protect freshly painted, polished, or plated nuts and bolts during final assembly and prevent nicks and scratches that will later turn to rust, simply apply masking tape to your wrench end. The tape covering the wrench opening will remain intact long enough to tighten several fasteners. We do recommend periodically checking the tape.

13. If you have recently stripped a metal panel or body in preparation for paint and you know you will be storing it and don’t want it to rust, cover the unpainted surface with masking tape. If the surface is going to be stored for a long period of time, spray a couple of coats of primer over the masking tape. When the time does come to paint, simply remove the masking tape and wipe off the adhesive residue with enamel reducer.

14. To protect a chrome wheel fastener from marring or scratching your nice, shiny wheels, sandwich a heavy-duty plastic bag between the socket and nut or even wrap the socket in painter’s tape.

15. A simple way to distinguish a forged crankshaft from a nodular cast-iron one is to place a folded rag on the floor, then place the crankshaft on the rag. Using a small steel hammer, gently tap the counterweight of the crankshaft. If it rings clearly, it is a forged steel crankshaft. If the hammer impact makes a dull "thud," the crankshaft is probably a nodular iron crankshaft. Crankshaft identification can also be determined by checking the crankshaft parting line (which is located on the unmachined portion of the counterweight). This will provide the crankshafts metallurgic status. A thin line indicates a casting, whereas a thick line indicates a forging.

16. When inserting spark plugs into an aluminum cylinder head, always coat the threads with Anti-Seize lubricant. This will eliminate galling and corrosion of the threads. It will also make removing them easier.

17. To retrieve a non-magnetic part or item you have dropped into a none-retrievable space that can’t be reached by your fingers or pliers, breakout the ol’ shop vac, or household vacuum cleaner. Find an old pair of your wife’s or girlfriend’s nylons and place them over the vacuum hose opening. Grasp them tightly as to not allow them to be sucked up into the vacuum. Turn the machine on and using the vacuum hose with nylon stretched over the opening, reach down into the lost item area. The suction of the vacuum will attract the lost item and suck it up against the nylon material holding it until you can retrieve it and turn the vacuum off.

18. Very fine grade 0000 steel wool can be used on chrome, glass, stainless steel, and other delicate materials because it won’t scratch the surface. To clean and brighten stainless moldings and trim pieces, use some chrome polish with the ultra-fine 0000 steel wool and elbow grease will bring it to a high luster. The ultra-fine steel wool can also be used to remove overspray on glass.

19. Taking minor scratches out of your windshield and glass pieces can be done by using buffing compound and an abrasive window cleaner. Using an electric buffer or variable speed drill with a buffing pad, add some glass polishing compound to the pad and work the buffer in a circular motion (always keeping the glass surface wet). Wipe the glass dry with a soft cloth. If the scratches still remain, repeat the polishing again until the scratches disappear.

20. To eliminate scratching or marring your painted frame while using a floor jack, jackstands, or lift, cover the lifting pad or pads with a used, but clean, wool buffing pad or doubled-over shop rag.