It was time to remove the idler and tensioner pulleys by unthreading the 1/2-inch bolts holding them onto the engine. Then, we were able to unthread the two 9/16-inch bolts, the 10mm bracket bolt, and one 9/16 nut (on a stud) holding the large cast-aluminum alternator mount on the engine. Then, we slid it off the stud to remove it.
A Complex Job Made EasyHow many times have you experienced this: Something that seems like it should be easy turns into a complete nightmare? Like removing a worn-out engine and reinstalling a new crate engine in your truck-sounds straightforward, right? But we all know this process is filled with steps that must be completed in a certain sequence, using special tools, and little-known, but required, actions. Beyond paying a shop the $1,000+ required to complete this job, there is another way to successfully swap your engine-use the ultra detailed, easy to understand Dr. Whaba R&R Photoinstructions to guide you through the process.
In case you haven't already noticed, the patent-pending system is being showcased here in this summary story by nesting the Whaba icons in the photos to visually tell you where to work on the vehicle and what tools you'll need to do the work-before you've read a single word.
While the Dr. Whaba R&R kit was used as a guide to swap this 383ci engine, asking for help made it easier to do this job right the first time. In this case, we asked an experienced mechanic friend, Gil Baker, if we could rent a two-post lift in his shop for a few days and ask him questions when we needed more understanding.
He agreed and we're glad he did-getting on a lift makes this job go that much faster. You can do the engine swap in your own garage on jackstands, but the lift definitely speeds things up and reduces the backbreaking nature of this kind of work.
Baker was also a great resource to ask about special processes and had many of the special tools on hand that were called for in the Dr. Whaba R&R books.
Look for Part 2 of this story next month where we install, tune, and chassis-dyno test the GM Performance Parts HT 383E engine for maximum truck performance.
The removal of the A/C compressor was next. We disconnected the electrical wiring on the top of the A/C compressor by lifting the lock tangs and pulling off the connector (in hand). Then, on the two connectors on the back of the compressor, we pushed down on the 'teeter-totter' lock tangs and pulled them off. | 
After unbolting the A/C compressor's four 1/2-inch bolts, we also had to move it, and later the power-steering pump, out of the way to pull the engine. The best way to do this was to leave them hooked up, but bungee cord them up out of the way-like this A/C compressor placed on the passenger fenderwell. |
Here, we removed the wires going to the coil (see arrows) and wires/hoses going to the vacuum solenoid (for the charcoal canister vapor recirculation system) and manifold air-pressure sensor. We were then ready to move them towards the firewall to prepare for the engine removal. | 
This large electrical connector on the intake manifold allows control of the fuel injection unit nested in the intake manifold. It was pulled out of the white lock tang first (see arrow), then the connector was lifted off of the intake. This design is fragile, so we were careful while removing the connector. The plastic intake 'lid' was also removed to avoid damaging it. |
Unlocking the many large clips holding the flexible wiring conduit (the hand holding small screwdriver is lifting a lock tab approximately 4 mm to release) was next. We positioned the conduit up against the firewall and zip-tied it up there during the R&R procedure. | 
Under the engine bay, the starter fasteners were unbolted, along with the exhaust tubing, the knock sensor wiring, the cooling hoses and the power steering pump and reservoir unit-which needed to be pushed to the driver side of the engine bay to allow removal of the power steering/A/C compressor mount. |