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Re-Gear and Speedometer Calibration - UpTo Speed
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rear differential
Re-Gear and Speedometer Calibration - UpTo Speed
With the C-clips out, Bill was able to pull out both axles and then remove both bearing caps before removing the ring gear assembly, making sure to keep track of the shims.
The pinion gear and driveshaft yoke is held in place by a single bolt, and an impact wrench took care of it.
Next, we ordered the Sierra Gear and Axle 4.56:1 ring-and-pinion set with the corresponding installation kit with bearing races and bearings.
A long aluminum punch was used to drive out the old pinion bearing races.
Bill pulled out a set of step plates and found the matching size to drive in the new pinion bearing races.
One bearing race was inserted from the inside of the housing going outward, the second bearing race was seated from the outside inward.
The new pinion was given a coat of Break Away lube before the race was pressed on.
A special bearing puller was used to remove the bearings from the carrier.
A 10-bolt rearend has-you guessed it-10 bolts holding the ring gear to the carrier. Bill removed them and swapped in the Sierra Gear and Axle ring gear, then bolted it back after coating the bolts with Loctite.
Back at the press, we installed the carrier bearings.
Bill bolted in the pinion gear and driveshaft yoke to begin the installation.
The carrier went back in with the original shims, but it was too tight, so Bill removed one of the .001-inch shims and began the trial fitting.
With the bearing caps reinstalled, the first check was backlash. The .010 inch of backlash measured fell within the specs for a 10-bolt.
Marking paint was applied to the ring gear to check the contact patch with the pinion.
The first try showed that the contact patch was too shallow, so Bill swapped shims to move the ring gear .005 inches to the pinion side of the axle.
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